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How to make your own cornhole?

Part1

Building the top board

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    Build the top. You’ll need a sheet of plywood measuring 24 inches (61.0 cm) by 48 inches (121.9 cm). This is the standard size promoted by the American Cornhole Organization (ACO). [1]
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    Measure 12 inches (30.5 cm) on one side and 9 inches (22.9 cm) from the end you decide to be at the top. Mark this spot with your pencil. This marked spot will be the center of your cornhole. [2]
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    Draw the hole. Use a compass to mark a 6″ diameter hole (3″ radius). Place the tip of the drawing compass on the point you marked in the previous step. Lay the compass out so that it measures 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide and draw a circle. The point of the compass must not leave the board.

    • If you don’t have a compass, place a thumbtack over the pencil mark you’ve made. Place a piece of string under the thumbtack and push it down to hold the string in place. Using a ruler, measure 3 inches (7.6 cm) from the thumbtack, starting at the very center of the thumbtack. Tie a pencil to the string, making sure that the distance between the tip of the pencil and the thumbtack is 3 inches (7.6 cm). Draw your circle.
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    Drill a hole inside the circle you’ve just made, against the pencil circle. Make sure the hole does not extend beyond the pencil mark. This hole will serve as the starting point for your saw.
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    Insert your jigsaw blade and cut the hole. Try to cut as close as possible to the pencil circle. Your cut may not be perfect, but it doesn’t matter, as you can clean it up with sandpaper.

    • You can also cut the hole with a hole saw or router.
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    Wrap a piece of sandpaper around any cylinder. The handle of a hammer or a thin pipe will do the trick. Run the sandpaper along the inside edges of the hole to smooth out the cut and make it uniform.
Part2

Frame construction and mountingDownload article

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    Cut all your wood. You’ll need six 2 x 4 pieces of wood to make a board. Use a miter saw or handsaw to cut the boards. Always take care when using power tools. Don’t forget to take into account the width of the saw blade. [3]

    • If you’re not familiar with using a miter saw or handsaw, ask a lumberyard employee to cut your wood for you. Make sure you bring the right measurements to the lumberyard.
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    Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each is 21 inches (53.3 cm) long (these will be the ends of the frame). Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each measures 48 inches (121.9 cm) long (these will be the sides of the frame). Cut 2 of the 2x4s so that each measures 16 inches (40.6 cm) long (these will be the legs used later).
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    Build the frame. Place the 21″ boards between the 48″ boards.
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    Using the drill and 2 ½” wood screws, screw the boards together, drilling from the outside of the 48″ board to the end of the 21″ board where the two boards meet. Use two screws for each corner. [4]

    • Drill your holes with a bit slightly smaller than your screws. This ensures that your wood won’t split when you drill the screws, and makes it easier for the screws to penetrate the wood.
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    Place your board top on top of the frame. Again, before drilling your screws, drill holes with a bit slightly smaller than the screws you’ll be using.
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    Use 10 long drywall screws to fasten the top of the board to the frame. Use 4 screws at the top, 4 at the bottom and 2 on each side. [5]
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    Countersink the screws so they can be covered with putty later.
Part3

Building and attaching legsDownload article

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    Take one of the 16-inch pieces of wood. Use a ruler to estimate where your bolt will pass. Measure the width of your piece of wood and mark the exact center. Keep in mind that a 2×4 doesn’t actually measure 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 4 inches (10.2 cm). Your midpoint (middle of the wood) should be close to 1 ¾ inches. (To clarify, let’s say the middle of the width is 1 3/4 inches.) [6]
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    Place the ruler at the end of your wood and measure 1 3 ⁄ 4 inches (4.4 cm) (or whatever the length to the middle of the board was in the previous step. ) Make a mark indicating this measurement. From this mark, draw a line across the width of the wood. Extend your previous mark so that the two lines form a “t” and are perpendicular to each other. [7]
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    Take your drawing compass (or homemade compass) and place the point directly in the center of the ‘t’ you’ve just made. Draw a semicircle with the curve starting on the side of the board, arching towards the top of the board, then dropping back down on the other side of the board.
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    Turn your cornhole table upside down. Take a piece of scrap wood (use a piece left over from a 2×4 cut) and place it against one of the top corners of your table so that it lies flat against the top (i.e. it shouldn’t be parallel to the side of the frame).
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    Place one of the feet against the scrap wood so that it rests with the marks you’ve made facing outwards. It must be perpendicular to the piece of scrap wood (i.e. parallel to the side of the frame).
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    Transfer the midline of the leg to the frame. Use a ruler or a straight edge and draw the line with a pencil. Find the middle of the frame with a ruler and mark it along the line you’ve just drawn. Don’t include the plywood board in the measurement, just the 2×4 frame. [8]

    • This intersection is where the drilling bolt goes.
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    Make a small hole at the point of intersection with an additional screw. This will help you guide your screw or bolt into the right position.
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    Using an electric drill or screwdriver, drill a screw or bolt through the mark you’ve made. Make sure it passes through the frame and into the leg. Add the other leg in the same way.
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    Measure from the top of the board to the floor. If it’s not at 12″ (30.5 cm), mark where you need to cut the legs so that the board is at 12″ (30.5 cm) from the floor.
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    Turn the board over and saw the feet to size. Saw the legs at an angle so that they are parallel to the floor. Sand them if your cut is slightly irregular.
Part4

Painting the picture

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    Use a putty knife to put wood putty into any holes or cracks in your board. Check the putty box to find out how long to allow it to dry. The surface of your cornhole board should be as smooth as possible. If you put too much putty in a crack, you can sand it down once it’s dry. [9]
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    Sand the surface of your table. A smooth table will allow the poufs to slide more easily. Use an electric sander if you have one. If you don’t have one, medium-grit sandpaper will work fine. [ten]
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    Apply a thin coat of primer to all visible surfaces of the board and feet. You can use a brush or roller. Allow the primer to dry. The primer will dry white.
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    Add a coat of high-gloss white latex paint. This layer will act as a border if you follow a traditional cornhole design. Leave this layer to dry.
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    Choose your paint colors and design. The traditional cornhole table has a 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) wide white border. It also has a 1.5″ border around the circle. Use painters’ tape and cover anything you want to keep white with the tape.
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    Paint the rest of the picture in the color of your choice. Be sure to use high-gloss latex paint. This type of paint will leave your board smooth so that the poufs can slide more easily. Let the paint dry. If your paint is too light for your taste, add more coats.

    • If you decide not to do the traditional painting pattern, get creative! Use painters’ tape to create shapes you can paint on or around. Use bright colors and make your cornhole board stand out in a crowd.
Part5

Making bean bagsDownload article

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    Gather your supplies. You’ll need a large piece of duck canvas (you can usually buy duck canvas strips 7 inches wide and 56 inches long). You’ll also need scissors, a ruler, a sewing machine, fabric glue, a bag of feed corn. and a digital cooking scale.

    • You can also use needle and thread if you don’t have a sewing machine.
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    Cut duck fabric into 7″ x 7″ squares. Using your ruler, measure 7 inches (17.8 cm) at a time to ensure accuracy. You should make 8 of these squares. [11]
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    Match 2 of the squares so that they line up perfectly. Using a sewing machine or needle and thread, sew 3 of the sides closed. Remember to sew 1/2″ from the edge of the squares. [12]
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    Put a line of fabric glue between the edges of the two squares. Do this only on the sides you’ve sewn. Even if you have sewn these sides, gluing the extra fabric together will reduce the risk of your poufs leaking. [13]
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    Turn your bag inside out. Again, turning your bag upside down makes it less likely that your corn will escape.
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    Add 15.5 ounces of forage corn to each bag. Place feed corn on your digital cooking scale and add or remove corn until it weighs 15.5 ounces. Then place the corn in the bag. [14]

    • If you don’t have a digital cooking scale, 2 cups of feed corn is very close to 15.5 ounces. It may not be exact, but it will be close enough. [15]
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    Measure 1/2 inch on the side that’s still open. Fold the edges 1 ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm) into the bag and hold closed. You can use a pin to hold the edges closed. [16]
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    Sew the last side closed. Try to place your stitches as close to the edge as possible. This will make the bag as uniform in size as possible. [17]

Link to wikihow https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Cornhole-Game#

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